A word of warning Abergavenny!

Abergavenny Food Festival came to a close this afternoon after a great star studded weekend of talks, workshops and demonstrations: Yotam Ottolenghi, Pieere Koffman and Claudia Roden to name but a few. www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com For all those involved with real food either professionally or because they simply appreciate good food and who have never been, it is a great opportunity for finding new producers, new tastes, making discoveries, new contacts and catching up with old ones.

For me it was good to catch up with the Abergavenny team, Martin, Kim and Kathy and stalwarts such as Freddy in the Market Hall Stage who make the venues and the events work so well. I always say Abergavenny is to food as Edinburgh Fringe is to comedy. Overnight the little market town becomes a great big national food community, a crossroads, a meeting place for British food and foodies. In an industry that never stands still it is so lovely to bump into old friends and make new ones, exchange ideas and pleasantries; not to mention discovering new producers and tasting their wares and seeing the great British public wallowing in the sheer joy of the food revolution.

But a word of warning Abergavenny! The atmosphere and smell in the brewery yard on Saturday afternoon was bordering on Saturday night closing time fever and smelled of beer, chips and burgers. Something I had noticed for the first time at Fringe venues across Edinburgh earlier this year. By Sunday thankfully it had passed and all was well in Abergavenny.

It was great to see food writing friends, Joanna Blythman www.joannablythmanwriting.com who comes from Scotland and loves this part of the world and Alex Mackay www.alexmackay.com who will be coming to The Chef’s Room fish and cookery school in the spring to take a hands on class from his new book Everybody, everyday. www.thechefsroom.co.uk. Great to see Henry Herbert the butcher brother of the fabulous Baker boys duo who I had not seen since we cut up a pig together when he was at the Coach and Horses in Clerkenwell and good to say hello to the rest of the Hobbs House Bakery dynasty who I met at a Foodie Bugle bash earlier this year. Thanks Hobbs tots for the sticker I am still wearing it. www.hobbshousebakery.co.uk So much going on and so many foodies it is also easy to miss Abergavenny regulars such as Richard Ehrlich enriching the festival with his erudite cock-tales and Paolo Arrigo’s fabulous Franchi seeds www.seedsofitaly.com/catalogue

Franco did a dem on the Market Hall and I ran around a great deal as did Lea and Mike our volunteer s. The demo was manfully compared by Mike Morgan of the stately hotel Llansantffraed Court. We have been tweeting pals for a while but we had not met before. It was good to see Steve Robbins from Prego in Monmouth who was demming after us; Prego is a gem of a restaurant. I regret to say I have not been for ages - I must get out more! www.pregomonmouth.co.uk especially as I hear so many good reports about his food. It was good to meet Cyrus Todiwala of Café Spice Namaste www.cyrustodiwala.co.uk After the dem I went down to the Castle for my Rude Health rant and I tucked into Cyrus Todiwala’s chick pea curry while listening to others ranting.

I followed Ruth ranting about the rise in popularity of light olive oil as a healthy option (which it is not) rather than using good first pressing extra virgin oil. The www.yellowhousekitchen.co.uk Sardinian single-olive single-estate oil is utterly delicious. I have just finished a bottle (I keep it for dressing salads and dishes that need a flourish of oil. It is delicate but robust leaving a rich aftertaste. Ruth Tudor, farmer and clarion for authentic food, of Trealy Farm charcuterie www.meatcourse.co.uk took over the ranting baton with “Recession” what recession? Reminding us that the days of cheap food are gone forever and we need to be mindful about what we eat and the way our food is produced. My own rant was against the overly used phrase “passionate about food” or in other words is food in danger of becoming a spectators sport? Are we passionate about food like we are passionate about football? Do we shout about it from the sidelines rather than getting out there and playing or rather getting in the kitchen and cooking and feeding ourselves and our families? Rude Health cereal’s ranting corner is strategically placed next to the Blorenge bar; a great place to enjoy some local ale or cider and listen to us foodies spouting about the things that irritate us. www.rudehealth.com

The Castle venue was a delight, focusing on food and families with plenty of green space to stretch out in and enjoy the scene. The Lemonade Lady’s, Sally’s lemonade is to die for. She is positioned close to the castle mound where the children run free entertaining themselves by sliding down the grassy bank on cardboard boxes and plastic sacks. I would add here that the lemonade is more than just a children’s drink it is crisp and refreshing; just what is needed on a sunny afternoon: especially after a plate of chickpea curry and a rant.

As I was making my way back to the Market Hall to pick up my kit I stumbled across the Mad Hatter and friends setting out a delightfully insane tea party. Not quite sure who was most enthralled the children or the adults.

The famous journalists, food writers and restaurateurs that assemble (and they love to come) in Abergavenny are the reason that the Abergavenny Food Festival is held in such high regard but it is the stall holders and producers that are at its heart. The possibility of seeing, tasting and buying so many artisan products in one place and the warm Welsh welcome the town affords is what draws people to Abergavenny over and over again from all over the country.

There are so many producers it is difficult to mention one without fear of offending others however some of my favourites include Graham and Ruth Waddington of Native Breeds taking Frankfurters to another level, James Swift’s Trealy farm charcuterie – love his pork and fennel seed salami but still to taste his award winning lamb carpaccio. Kate Glover’s wonderfully fragrant Lahloo loose leaf teas, Little Yellow House Sardinia olive oil, Severn and Wye’s heavenly world leading smoked eel, Isle of Wight tomatoes and so much more. Vin Sullivan with his fabulous fish in the Priory and the cheese producers in Lion Square all make for a fantastic festival.

Roll on December 9th the Abergavenny food festival returns before Christmas.

Thank you Ludlow for a lovely day!

Ludlow Food Festival is such a good place to catch up with friends and colleagues. Saw lots of Lesley Mackley; leading light of the festival. Even managed an end of the day Prosecco from Ludlow's Twin town in the Veneto, San Pietro in Cariano (where the Valpolicella comes from) with her and Mark. Henrietta Green turned up too. Saw Will Holland from La Becasse (wonderful restaurant) next year I will get organised and stay the night and have a meal there - should I book now? Then I bumped into Alan Murchison from L'Ortolan - both chefs contributed to Cured.


I had a chance to chat with Wendy from Peter's Yard with her delicious Scandi type crisp breads, Katie, compare from Wot's cooking, Diana from Books Books Books all so supportive! I have been liaising with Sue Chantler over my taste workshop for some time and finally got to meet and work with her too.

My Slow Food Taste workshop on Italian finger food made with local produce went well, Trish in the kitchen did her stuff brilliantly and managed to fry 40 quail's eggs without any trouble. Rather her than me!The Beacon Rooms are beautiful and the workshops with Sue Chantler are very popular. I then did a demo on the Olive Stage in the afternoon. It was advertised for some reason as Dolce Vita but was "not raw at all" ceviche, carpaccio, crudo, tartare, sashimi, raw fish recipes from Cured. The book sold well afterwards.

Naturally you can't go to a food festival without buying lots of goodies. Cureton's moist and meaty pork and pheasant sausages www.curetonsfinefood.co.uk , a variety of charcuterie products from Wenlock Edge Farm www.wenlockedgefarm.co.uk, warm kippers straight from the smoke www.ludlowtraditionalsmokehouse.com Grana Padano, Speck and Sopressa from Ludlow's twin town www.prolocosanpietroincariano.it www.valpolicellaweb.it

I did not buy but loved Ursula Evans sensational traditional fruit cakes www.mycottage kitchen.co.uk If you do not make your own Christmas cake, order now. They are not only delicious but the presentation is gorgeous too. The cakes won Great Taste gold 2011 and her Christmas cake was cited as "Best classic Christmas cake" by Felicity Cloak (Guradian.co.uk) Talking of Christmas, Kelly Bronze www.kellyturkeys.co.uk bred to be wild, also a Great Taste gold winner in 2011 is a veritable feast of flavour and available mail order. Cheese producer Sarah Hampton of Brock Hall Farm Dairy won coverted 3 star gold for her Capra Nouveau at this year's Great Taste Awards and it was voted one of the Top 50 products in the UK. She has an original marketing slant on all her cheeses. The collection is called The Art of Artisan Cheese and individual cheeses are associated by their names with famous Art movements. This is no gimmick the product is outstanding made with milk from her pedigree heard of rare breed goats.

In a moment of calm during the day I sat in the sun, enjoying the scene of crowds of British foodies enjoying the prospect of so much regional produce, all the while eating a raspberry sorbet, Hillbrooks ice cream www.hillbrooks.co.uk made on my own doorstep and of which I had never heard but will never forget as the intensity of the taste transported me to field of raspberries.

Thank you Ludlow for a lovely day.

Battle of the figs

Bresaola, pecorino, walnut, fig and herb salad



September is the optimum time for fresh figs; coming as they do at this time of year from the Mediterranean. We can grow them very effectively here in our gardens as well. I have a tree that was only planted ten years ago and it always delivers a tidy crop. These never get as far as the kitchen but are picked and eaten then and there....by me and me alone. But then to tell the truth I can eat figs morning noon and night. I just love them.

Many fig trees suffered badly during the severe winter a year or so back but I am delighted to say my tree has now completely grown again from the root and is back on track to deliver the goods any minute now.

Fig trees crop heavily in southern climes even on open ground, to the extent that one of the traditions of late summer in Italy is the battle of the figs. This is when very enthusiastic Italians go into the county side and literally throw figs at one another.

This simple and delicious salad recipe can be served on its own with extra shavings of pecorino cheese or with paper thin slices of bresaola, Italian cured beef or prosciutto. It combines the freshness and crispness of herbs and salad leaves with the rich autumnal tastes and textures of walnuts and figs and the richness of cheese. This recipe takes only a few minutes to put together, makes a great light lunch with good bread or a simple and effective starter for a supper party.



Serves 4



dressing

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon cider or wine vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon whole grain mustard

salt and freshly ground black pepper



salad

handful roughly chopped walnuts

6 figs each cut into six wedges

100g watercress and sweet salad leaves

50g pecorino cheese shavings

1 handful of 3 of the following fresh herbs: basil, borage, parsley, thyme, mint and marjoram finely chopped

70-100g bresaola or prosciutto, optional



to serve

50g pecorino shavings

tablespoon of walnut pieces



Put the dressing ingredients in a screw top jar, seal and shake well.



When ready to serve, arrange the bresaola or prosciutto on medium sized plates.



Put the walnuts, sliced figs, salad leaves, cheese and herbs in a salad bowl, add the dressing and toss well. Don’t worry if the cheese shavings break up. Put a handful of the dressed salad in the middle of each serving of cured meat.



Top with a few extra shavings of cheese and chopped walnuts. Serve at once.

Chef's Room wants best recipes in Wales

The Farmers' Union of Wales has teamed up with top Welsh chefs to produce a book of Welsh food recipes.






It is asking the public to submit their favourite red meat, poultry, dairy and dessert dishes for a chance to feature in the book. The overall winner will receive a Welsh food hamper worth £100.







The team of chefs judging the competition includes Gareth Johns of The Wynnstay Hotel, Machynlleth; Bryan Webb, Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo, near Corwen; Hefin Roberts, Ye Olde Bulls Head Inn, Beaumaris; Stephen Terry, The Hardwick, Abergavenny; and Margaret Rees, Slow Food Carmarthenshire group leader.







Culinary legends Ann and Franco Taruschio, pioneers of the food revival in Wales at the Walnut Tree Inn, near Abergavenny, will write the book's foreword.





Recipe entries must make use of Welsh produce only, highlighting where the food is sourced from, together with a description of why this is their favourite recipe.





The first prize winner for each of the categories will receive a copy of the book and a Welsh food hamper worth £20. The closing date for entries is August 31.





Entries must be submitted to Farmers' Union of Wales, Llys Amaeth, Plas Gogerddan, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion, SY23 3BT.





For further information contact Anne Birkett, Press Officer, on 01970 820 820 or by e-mail: anne.birkett@fuw.org.uk





Bryan Webb will judge the red meat section.





Stephen Terry,will judge entries for the poultry section.





The dairy recipes will fall under the of Margaret Rees, a pioneer in creating greater awareness of the importance of buying traceable foods from our farmers and artisan food producer.





Hefin Roberts, will judge the dessert menu.





The overall winner will be chosen by Master Chef of Great Britain Gareth Johns, winner of Best Welsh Cheeseboard 2008 and 2011 at the British Cheese Awards, Local Food Heroes 2008-9 Highly Commended (Wales), Penderyn Welsh Restaurant of the Month for June 2008 and first Welsh winner of the Michelin Gastro Pub Award.

Herefordshire needs you

As a member of the Herefordshire Flavours Awards steering group I would like to make all your readers aware of the new look awards. We have been meeting regularly over the past six months to breathe some new life into Flavours. We all come from different backgrounds but are, in some way, involved with food professionally and live in Herefordshire.


Herefordshire is a beautifu county and has much to offer and much to be proud of but are we taking it for granted? We are determined to put local food and local food businesses on the map and to encourage young people in the industry. We intend to reward quality and endeavor with PR and marketing opportunities as well as awards.



We also want to involve the public and are looking for nominations for the best butcher in the county in our "Beef up your butcher" competition. The nominees will be entered into a prize draw to win a hamper. The best butcher and runners up will have outstanding marketing opportunities. Later on in the season there will be a best dressed Herefordshire food and drink window category.



This year we have changed the “Best Food and Drink Producers” category. There will be no out-right winner but the best products will be judged, gold, silver and bronze. Judging takes place in mid July so please don't delay. Best ‘Young Chef in Education’ and the ‘Young Chef in Industry’ is also imminent. So please even if you are not directly involved please take an interest, talk-up the awards and better still if you know any one that fits any of these categories tell them to get in touch for Herefordshire's sake

For details of these and the other awards for 2012-2013 please contact Liz Hill on liz.hill@visitherefordshire.co.uk 01432 268430 or visit www.visitherefordshire.co.uk/members/the-flavours-of-herefordshire-awards

HERALDS OF AN ENGLISH SUMMER

Broad beans are one of my favourite vegetables and when they appear at the green grocer’s I know summer is here. Many of you of course will grow your own. Even better as you can pick them at the optimum time before they get too big and while the beans are still sweet and tender. Some will say why bother they are just as good from the freezer! And so they are but nothing can compare with a seasonal vegetable, freshly picked, freshly podded and then popped into the pot to be cooked.

For me the broad bean is the epitome of a traditional British summer time family feast, served either with roast or boiled ham or salmon. In my childhood, before the advent of farmed salmon, fresh salmon was strictly seasonal too and it used to appear at more or less the same time. My mother was what she used to describe as a plain cook. No fancy foreign food except of course, for curry, but she could cook a Wye or Severn Salmon to perfection. She served it with mayonnaise, the first broad beans and new potatoes from the garden tossed in mint and butter. It was my father’s favourite meal.

My father died in June (many, many years ago), the broad beans were ready for picking, the first potatoes for digging. My mother cooked a salmon and the whole family sat down to the feast. No one said much, but everyone thought the same thing and as we enjoyed the feast, tears rolled down our cheeks. Not that this has ever dimmed our enthusiasm, but rather intensified the enjoyment. Memory also plays an important part in taste.

NEW POTATO, BROAD BEAN AND PEA COMPOTE serves 4

12 small new potatoes (500 g)

1 kg young broad beans, in shells

500 g peas in their shells

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 level teaspoon sugar

3 tablespoon dry white wine

Handful of mint leaves, chopped

Salt and white pepper

Extra virgin olive oil



Put the potatoes in to cold water, add salt, bring to the boil and simmer until not quite tender (15 - 20 minutes). In the meantime shell the broad beans and peas.

Cover the base of a saucepan with olive oil, add the chopped onion and cook over low heat until soft (5 minutes). Strain the potatoes and cut in half unless very small, and stir fry for a few minutes, then add the beans and peas, stir again and add salt to taste and a pinch of white pepper and the sugar. Add a ladle of hot water, stir and carry on cooking over low heat until the broad beans are tender. Add the wine as the pan dries out.

When the vegetables are tender, transfer to a serving dish add the chopped mint and serve at once.

Diamond Jubilee Cider cup

Cups and punches are festive, traditional and practical when large numbers of people are involved, so what better choice of drink to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. They can be mixed in advance and the sparkling elements added when ready to serve. Use chilled ingredients rather than adding lots of ice which can make the punch watery. In the past before the advent of ice trays, blocks of ice were added which cooled the punch down quickly but melted slowly. Simply fill a plastic container (say a litre) with water and freeze it. Ten minutes or so before serving your punch add the ice block turned out of its container and proceed with the party.
Enjoy this Diamond Jubilee Year. “Long live Queen Elizabeth II!” and don't forget Hereford's Diamond day July 11th 2012 when HRH Queen Elizabeth II comes to town.




1 wineglass of brandy (apple brandy if possible)

1 vanilla pod

25 g sugar or more to taste depending on the type of cider used

Bunch of mint

1 L best local cider

500 - 750 ml soda water

1 thinly sliced lemon and extra lemon juice

1 dessert apple cut into wedges and sprinkled with lemon juice



Put the brandy in a punch bowl or large stainless steel pan. Slit the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and add to the brandy. Add 25 g sugar, a bunch of mint and leave for at least an hour or until required.

When ready to serve add the ice block and top up with the cider and 500 ml soda and stir well. Taste and add extra sugar and soda as required.

Add the fruit, stir again and serve with a ladle.