Tuesday, 12 June 2012
HERALDS OF AN ENGLISH SUMMER
Broad beans are one of my favourite vegetables and when they appear at the green grocer’s I know summer is here. Many of you of course will grow your own. Even better as you can pick them at the optimum time before they get too big and while the beans are still sweet and tender. Some will say why bother they are just as good from the freezer! And so they are but nothing can compare with a seasonal vegetable, freshly picked, freshly podded and then popped into the pot to be cooked.
For me the broad bean is the epitome of a traditional British summer time family feast, served either with roast or boiled ham or salmon. In my childhood, before the advent of farmed salmon, fresh salmon was strictly seasonal too and it used to appear at more or less the same time. My mother was what she used to describe as a plain cook. No fancy foreign food except of course, for curry, but she could cook a Wye or Severn Salmon to perfection. She served it with mayonnaise, the first broad beans and new potatoes from the garden tossed in mint and butter. It was my father’s favourite meal.
My father died in June (many, many years ago), the broad beans were ready for picking, the first potatoes for digging. My mother cooked a salmon and the whole family sat down to the feast. No one said much, but everyone thought the same thing and as we enjoyed the feast, tears rolled down our cheeks. Not that this has ever dimmed our enthusiasm, but rather intensified the enjoyment. Memory also plays an important part in taste.
NEW POTATO, BROAD BEAN AND PEA COMPOTE serves 4
12 small new potatoes (500 g)
1 kg young broad beans, in shells
500 g peas in their shells
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 level teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoon dry white wine
Handful of mint leaves, chopped
Salt and white pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
Put the potatoes in to cold water, add salt, bring to the boil and simmer until not quite tender (15 - 20 minutes). In the meantime shell the broad beans and peas.
Cover the base of a saucepan with olive oil, add the chopped onion and cook over low heat until soft (5 minutes). Strain the potatoes and cut in half unless very small, and stir fry for a few minutes, then add the beans and peas, stir again and add salt to taste and a pinch of white pepper and the sugar. Add a ladle of hot water, stir and carry on cooking over low heat until the broad beans are tender. Add the wine as the pan dries out.
When the vegetables are tender, transfer to a serving dish add the chopped mint and serve at once.
Monday, 11 June 2012
Diamond Jubilee Cider cup
Cups and punches are festive, traditional and practical when large numbers of people are involved, so what better choice of drink to celebrate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. They can be mixed in advance and the sparkling elements added when ready to serve. Use chilled ingredients rather than adding lots of ice which can make the punch watery. In the past before the advent of ice trays, blocks of ice were added which cooled the punch down quickly but melted slowly. Simply fill a plastic container (say a litre) with water and freeze it. Ten minutes or so before serving your punch add the ice block turned out of its container and proceed with the party.
Enjoy this Diamond Jubilee Year. “Long live Queen Elizabeth II!” and don't forget Hereford's Diamond day July 11th 2012 when HRH Queen Elizabeth II comes to town.
1 wineglass of brandy (apple brandy if possible)
1 vanilla pod
25 g sugar or more to taste depending on the type of cider used
Bunch of mint
1 L best local cider
500 - 750 ml soda water
1 thinly sliced lemon and extra lemon juice
1 dessert apple cut into wedges and sprinkled with lemon juice
Put the brandy in a punch bowl or large stainless steel pan. Slit the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds and add to the brandy. Add 25 g sugar, a bunch of mint and leave for at least an hour or until required.
When ready to serve add the ice block and top up with the cider and 500 ml soda and stir well. Taste and add extra sugar and soda as required.
Add the fruit, stir again and serve with a ladle.
Thursday, 26 April 2012
Back to basics: Scones
When I recently advertised a baking course at the Chef’s Room, it filled up straight away and yet only a couple of years previously when I ran a similar course there had been very little interest. That of course was prior to the Great British Bake-off series on TV.
We made chic Parisian macarons, crisp Sicilian almond biscuits, rich chocolate tartlets and plump coffee flavoured choux buns. All of which were enjoyed as a Savoy style afternoon tea with a glass of fizz. What was left over was taken home.
In my wisdom, even though I felt that everyone would know how to make scones I decided that no such occasion would be complete without them and added the recipe to the list. I was therefore quite surprised when the assembled company admitted they had never made scones. I therefore decided to share my mother’s scone recipe this month. My next bake-away afternoon tea is Thursday October 11th if you would like to join me please get in touch.
Hot tips:
Grannie’s scones: makes 8
200 g, 2 cups self-raising flourteaspoon bicarbonate of soda
teaspoon cream of tartar
pinch of salt
25 g butter from the fridge
25 g caster sugar
1 medium free range egg
75-100 ml milk and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice
1 extra egg, forked for glazing
Utensils
straight-sided scone cutter 5 - 6 cm in diameter
alternatively use a glass
To serve
strawberry jam
125 ml whipped cream
200 g small fresh strawberries
icing sugar
preheat oven 200 C 400 F gas mark 6
Sieve the flour with the bicarbonate of soda, cream of tartar and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub it into the flour evenly with the tips of the fingers, mix in the sugar. Add the egg and 75ml of milk and work the dough into a ball quickly and lightly with a knife. The dough should be soft, moist and malleable. Add a little extra milk to the dough to keep it moist.
Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and flatten it with the hands and shape into a round, 2-3 centimetres thick. If the dough is too moist simply add a little extra flour. Cut out as many scones as the dough allows. Roll the trimmings into a ball, flatten it and cut out a couple more scones. Shape the remaining trimmings into one single scone. Transfer all the scones to a greased baking tray. Paint the scones with beaten egg and bake for 10-15 minutes until well risen and golden. Tap the underside it should sound hallow. Leave to cool a little.
While still warm split open, spread with jam, add a spoon of whipped cream and top with a strawberry. Sprinkle with a veil of icing sugar.
We made chic Parisian macarons, crisp Sicilian almond biscuits, rich chocolate tartlets and plump coffee flavoured choux buns. All of which were enjoyed as a Savoy style afternoon tea with a glass of fizz. What was left over was taken home.
In my wisdom, even though I felt that everyone would know how to make scones I decided that no such occasion would be complete without them and added the recipe to the list. I was therefore quite surprised when the assembled company admitted they had never made scones. I therefore decided to share my mother’s scone recipe this month. My next bake-away afternoon tea is Thursday October 11th if you would like to join me please get in touch.
Hot tips:
- Scones are very simple and quick to make but there are certain rules to follow; work quickly and lightly and keep the mixture as moist as possible. If it is too sticky to handle, dust with plenty of flour.
- In the days before refrigerators, scones were traditionally made with milk that had turned sour. This is not something that happens very often these days. Either leave the milk out overnight to go sour or add a teaspoon or two of lemon juice to the milk to turn it sour just before you make the scones. You would not believe the difference it makes to the taste and texture.
- Always serve scones warm; if necessary reheat in the oven before serving
- Lastly if you don't do afternoon tea, freshly baked scones are great for breakfast
Grannie’s scones: makes 8
200 g, 2 cups self-raising flourteaspoon bicarbonate of soda
teaspoon cream of tartar
pinch of salt
25 g butter from the fridge
25 g caster sugar
1 medium free range egg
75-100 ml milk and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice
1 extra egg, forked for glazing
Utensils
straight-sided scone cutter 5 - 6 cm in diameter
alternatively use a glass
To serve
strawberry jam
125 ml whipped cream
200 g small fresh strawberries
icing sugar
preheat oven 200 C 400 F gas mark 6
Sieve the flour with the bicarbonate of soda, cream of tartar and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub it into the flour evenly with the tips of the fingers, mix in the sugar. Add the egg and 75ml of milk and work the dough into a ball quickly and lightly with a knife. The dough should be soft, moist and malleable. Add a little extra milk to the dough to keep it moist.
Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and flatten it with the hands and shape into a round, 2-3 centimetres thick. If the dough is too moist simply add a little extra flour. Cut out as many scones as the dough allows. Roll the trimmings into a ball, flatten it and cut out a couple more scones. Shape the remaining trimmings into one single scone. Transfer all the scones to a greased baking tray. Paint the scones with beaten egg and bake for 10-15 minutes until well risen and golden. Tap the underside it should sound hallow. Leave to cool a little.
While still warm split open, spread with jam, add a spoon of whipped cream and top with a strawberry. Sprinkle with a veil of icing sugar.
Tuesday, 24 April 2012
WAKE ME UP IN THE MORNING!
It may surprise you to know, given we are a nation of marmalade makers and eaters, that we celebrated National Marmalade week this year for the very first time from 25 February - 3 March.
This inaugural awareness week was created by the organizers of The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival held in Dalemain mansion in the Lake District because of the huge increase in the number of people making their own marmalades and artisan made marmalades on the market.
If you want to have a go yourself next year jars from every type of marmalade maker are welcomed. Further entry details including a downloadable entry form, category criteria, submission details and entry fees can be found by visiting: www.marmaladeawards.com
However if you simply want to have a bash at making your own Jubilee vintage to celebrate this great British tradition, here is a great marmalade recipe guaranteed to wake up your palate over breakfast. One of the pluses or this recipe is that you can make it any time of the year as it does not require Seville oranges. Don’t forget, marmalade is a useful ingredient; it makes great sponge puddings and tarts and you can also add it to savoury dishes to give a tangy citrus flavour.
Chunky lemon, lime and grapefruit marmalade
The combination of lemon, lime and grapefruit makes a delicious zingy ‘good morning world’ tasting marmalade. It can be made in small quantities at any time of the year, not just when the traditional Seville oranges are in season. I have given quantities to yield two or three jars but if you want to make in bulk, then simply double or triple the ingredients. Cut the peel to suit your taste – thick or thin by hand, chunky or fine using a blender. Vary the citrus fruit to suit your taste.
Ingredients
1 lemon
1 small pink grapefruit
1 lime
500 ml water
1 kg sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
Equipment
3 clean, dry, warm 259 g jam jars with lids
1 pack jam pot covers and waxed discs
Makes 500g 750 g
Scrub the fruit and prise out any stalk ends still attached. Put the fruit in a pan and cover with cold water, set over low heat and cook until tender – this will take 11/2-2 hours. The fruit is ready when it ‘collapses’. Lime zest is generally tougher than other citrus peel, so you must make sure it is tender at this stage otherwise it will taste woody.
Transfer the fruit to a chipping board, reserving the water) and leave until cool enough to handle. Cut in half, scrape out the pips and add to the pan of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Cut the zest into strips as finely as possible or put in a blender and whiz until chunky. Strain the water from the pips and flesh and return it to the pan, adding the chopped zest and the lemon juice. Discard the pips and the debris.
Add the sugar to the pan and bring slowly to simmering point, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Because the sugar content is high this will take quite a long time. When the marmalade has become translucent, you will know the sugar has dissolved and you can increase the heat. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached – 5-10 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat and test for set (see below). If the marmalade is not ready, put the pan back on the heat to boil for a few more minutes and test again. Repeat this process if necessary and remember to take the pan off the heat during testing as over boiling the marmalade will ruin it.
When setting point is reached, return to simmering point, then turn off the heat. Skim with a perforated spoon, stir well and let stand for 20 – 30 minutes for the fruit to settle. Stir and ladle into clean, dry, warm jars and wipe the necks of the jar with a clean, damp cloth if necessary. Seal at once with waxed paper discs and covers.
Let cool, label and store in a cool, dark cupboard until required.
Testing for set
Before you start put a saucer and 2 – 3 teaspoons in the fridge to cool. When the marmalade is ready take it off the heat and using a cold spoon put a teaspoon full in the fridge on the cold saucer and leave for five minutes. After this time push the marmalade with a finger – if it offers resistance or crinkles it is ready, on the other hand if it is still liquid the marmalade needs to be boiled up again.
This inaugural awareness week was created by the organizers of The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival held in Dalemain mansion in the Lake District because of the huge increase in the number of people making their own marmalades and artisan made marmalades on the market.
If you want to have a go yourself next year jars from every type of marmalade maker are welcomed. Further entry details including a downloadable entry form, category criteria, submission details and entry fees can be found by visiting: www.marmaladeawards.com
However if you simply want to have a bash at making your own Jubilee vintage to celebrate this great British tradition, here is a great marmalade recipe guaranteed to wake up your palate over breakfast. One of the pluses or this recipe is that you can make it any time of the year as it does not require Seville oranges. Don’t forget, marmalade is a useful ingredient; it makes great sponge puddings and tarts and you can also add it to savoury dishes to give a tangy citrus flavour.
Chunky lemon, lime and grapefruit marmalade
The combination of lemon, lime and grapefruit makes a delicious zingy ‘good morning world’ tasting marmalade. It can be made in small quantities at any time of the year, not just when the traditional Seville oranges are in season. I have given quantities to yield two or three jars but if you want to make in bulk, then simply double or triple the ingredients. Cut the peel to suit your taste – thick or thin by hand, chunky or fine using a blender. Vary the citrus fruit to suit your taste.
Ingredients
1 lemon
1 small pink grapefruit
1 lime
500 ml water
1 kg sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
Equipment
3 clean, dry, warm 259 g jam jars with lids
1 pack jam pot covers and waxed discs
Makes 500g 750 g
Scrub the fruit and prise out any stalk ends still attached. Put the fruit in a pan and cover with cold water, set over low heat and cook until tender – this will take 11/2-2 hours. The fruit is ready when it ‘collapses’. Lime zest is generally tougher than other citrus peel, so you must make sure it is tender at this stage otherwise it will taste woody.
Transfer the fruit to a chipping board, reserving the water) and leave until cool enough to handle. Cut in half, scrape out the pips and add to the pan of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Cut the zest into strips as finely as possible or put in a blender and whiz until chunky. Strain the water from the pips and flesh and return it to the pan, adding the chopped zest and the lemon juice. Discard the pips and the debris.
Add the sugar to the pan and bring slowly to simmering point, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Because the sugar content is high this will take quite a long time. When the marmalade has become translucent, you will know the sugar has dissolved and you can increase the heat. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached – 5-10 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat and test for set (see below). If the marmalade is not ready, put the pan back on the heat to boil for a few more minutes and test again. Repeat this process if necessary and remember to take the pan off the heat during testing as over boiling the marmalade will ruin it.
When setting point is reached, return to simmering point, then turn off the heat. Skim with a perforated spoon, stir well and let stand for 20 – 30 minutes for the fruit to settle. Stir and ladle into clean, dry, warm jars and wipe the necks of the jar with a clean, damp cloth if necessary. Seal at once with waxed paper discs and covers.
Let cool, label and store in a cool, dark cupboard until required.
Testing for set
Before you start put a saucer and 2 – 3 teaspoons in the fridge to cool. When the marmalade is ready take it off the heat and using a cold spoon put a teaspoon full in the fridge on the cold saucer and leave for five minutes. After this time push the marmalade with a finger – if it offers resistance or crinkles it is ready, on the other hand if it is still liquid the marmalade needs to be boiled up again.
Monday, 23 April 2012
Wallow in a bowl of sheer luxury
This is a traditional Scottish dish know as Cullen Skink and if you don’t know it, now is the time to try it. I first tasted it while in Nairn, visiting my niece. Her husband Tony is a great cook and this is one of his specialities which he was keen for me to try. I was keen to try it as smoked haddock is a favourite fish and I was researching Cured at the time and keen to find just the right recipe to showcase this wonderful ingredient. http://www.waterstones.com/waterstonesweb/products/lindy+wildsmith/cured/7673914/
Cullen Skink is creamy; some of the potato is liquidised with the milk before serving, delicately smoky and succulent; the recipe uses the thickest part of the best natural smoked haddock, colourful and luxurious; tinted with saffron and totally satisfying and healthy.
As a big fan of smoked haddock I was knocked out by it. It is a hearty dish yet totally suited to spring time, just wait until you see the colour! If you are serving it as a starter, keep the portions small; it works well as a one course lunch dish with some decent bread. If you live within striking distance of Ross-on-Wye, Cirencester or Newent I highly recommend Donna and Robert’s market fish stalls; their smoked haddock is exceptional as is all the fish they sell. They are there from early morning until lunch time but it is essential to make an early visit to benefit from the full range of beautifully fresh fish.
Creamy saffron-laced smoked haddock chowder, served with parsley and chives
serves 4
600ml milk
1 small onion or shallot studded with 6 cloves
Generous pinch of saffron threads
400g natural smoked haddock, preferably the thick middle part
1 ½ tablespoons of butter or olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
175g potatoes peeled and cut into small cubes
Black pepper
For serving
Extra milk
Chopped parsley and chives
Put the milk in a saucepan with the clove studded onion and a generous pinch of saffron strands. Bring the milk to simmering point, switch off the heat and leave to stand for 1 hour for the flavours to infuse.
After this time bring the milk to simmering point again, add the haddock and gently poach for 3 minutes. Transfer the fish to a plate and carefully flake with a fork, discarding the skin and bones, then cover and reserve. Strain the milk and reserve.
Melt the butter or heat the oil in a saucepan, adding the chopped onion and cook until soft. Add the cubed potato and cook for 2 minutes. Add the strained milk and simmer gently until the potato is tender (say 20 minutes). Reserve half of the potato cubes for later use and transfer the remaining vegetables and milk to a blender and blend until creamy. Add black pepper.
When ready to serve, gently reheat the soup, taking care not to let it curdle. If the soup is very thick it may be necessary to dilute it with extra milk. Divide the reserved haddock and potato between 6 warmed dishes and pour the soup on top. Sprinkle with snipped chives and chopped parsley and serve at once.
Sunday, 19 February 2012
Rhubarb, rhubarb!
RHUBARB! RHUBARB!
We all love rhubarb or at least we should. It is one of the culinary joys of early spring; the earliest, slimmest, sweetest, tenderest variety is called ‘champagne rhubarb’. Its arrival in the shops and on the table heralds a host of lip smacking and comforting puddings, many of them rooted in our childhood: rhubarb and custard, rhubarb crumble, rhubarb tart, steamed roly-poly pudding, rhubarb fool, and the list goes on.
Rhubarb is not only about nursery food; its beautiful pink hue can add sophistication and its tart sweetness, piquancy to any sweetmeat; jams, jellies, mousses, cakes, panna cotta. Imagine choux pastry filled with rhubarb flavoured crème pâtissière and covered with white chocolate. Rhubarb is enhanced with the addition of orange zest, star anise and root ginger. For a double rhubarb hit try lacing puddings with Chases rhubarb liqueur or simply serve a shot on the side.
Rhubarb and triple almond frangipan tart - serves 6
For cooking the rhubarb in advance
500 g young tender rhubarb,
100 g caster sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons Chase’s rhubarb liqueur (optional)
For the pastry
100 g plain flour
10 g cornflour
30g icing sugar
60 g unsalted butter
1 small egg yolk
1 tablespoon iced water or Chase’s rhubarb liqueur
For the filling
150 g marzipan roughly grated
100 g unsalted butter
100 g caster sugar
2 eggs
2 tablespoons cornflour
2 teaspoons baking powder
100 g ground almonds
Sieved icing sugar to serve
Equipment: 22 cm diameter tart tin
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
To make the pastry, put all the ingredients in a bowl and work them quickly and lightly into a smooth ball with your hands. Wrap in cling film and chill in the fridge for 1 hour.
To cook the rhubarb, wash the rhubarb and without drying it cut into 2 – 3 cm lengths and put in a small pan with the sugar. Put over low heat and bring gently to simmering point. If the fruit is dry it may be necessary to add a couple of tablespoons of water at this stage. Cook gently until the rhubarb collapses. Add the rhubarb liqueur if using, stir well, then taste for sweetness. Transfer the rhubarb to a sieve, leave to drain over a small pan and leave to cool.
Put the pan of rhubarb juice on high heat and boil for 5 minutes or until reduced by half.
After an hour’s rest - with a rolling pin, roll the pastry out thinly on a floured surface and use to line the tart tin.
Spoon the cooled, drained rhubarb over the pastry base and scatter the roughly grated marzipan over the top.
Put the sugar and butter in a bowl and whisk until light and creamy. Add the eggs a little at a time, beating well as you do so. Add the cornflour, baking powder and almonds then gently fold into the mixture.
Spoon the mixture on top of the rhubarb and marzipan, taking care to cover it all and to spoon the cake mixture right up to the pastry edge. Sprinkle the flaked almonds over the top.
Transfer the tart to the oven and bake for about 45 minutes, until golden and springy to the touch. Reduce the heat to 160C/Gas Mark 3 for the last 20 minutes, or if the almonds start to turn too dark.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little. Serve warm sprinkled with icing sugar. Drizzle a few drops of the rhubarb syrup on each plate when serving.
WAKE ME UP IN THE MORNING – National Marmalade week
It may surprise you to know, given we are a nation of marmalade makers and eaters, that we are going to celebrate National Marmalade week this year for the very first time from 25 February - 3 March.
This inaugural awareness week has been created by the organizers of The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival held in Dalemain mansion in the Lake District because there has been a huge increase in the number of people making their own marmalades and artisan made marmalades on the market.
If you want to have a go yourself, entries to the awards are now open and jars from every type of marmalade maker are welcomed. Further entry details including a downloadable entry form, category criteria, submission details and entry fees can be found by visiting: www.marmaladeawards.com.
However if you simply want to have a bash at making your own to celebrate this great British tradition, here is a great marmalade recipe guaranteed to wake up your palate over breakfast. Don’t forget though, marmalade makes great sponge puddings and tarts too.
CHUNKY LIME,LEMON AND GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE
The combination of lemon, lime and grapefruit makes a delicious zingy ‘good morning world’ tasting marmalade. It can be made in small quantities at any time of the year, not just when the traditional Seville oranges are in season. I have given quantities to yield two or three jars but if you want to make in bulk, then simply double or triple the ingredients. Cut the peel to suit your taste – thick or thin by hand, chunky or fine using a blender. Vary the citrus fruit to suit your taste.
Ingredients
1 lemon
1 small pink grapefruit
1 lime
500 ml water
1 kg sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
Equipment
3 clean, dry, warm 259 g jam jars with lids
1 pack jam pot covers and waxed discs
Makes 500g 750 g
Scrub the fruit and prise out any stalk ends still attached. Put the fruit in a pan and cover with cold water, set over low heat and cook until tender – this will take 11/2-2 hours. The fruit is ready when it ‘collapses’. Lime zest is generally tougher than other citrus peel, so you must make sure it is tender at this stage otherwise it will taste woody.
Transfer the fruit to a chipping board, reserving the water) and leave until cool enough to handle. Cut in half, scrape out the pips and add to the pan of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Cut the zest into strips as finely as possible or put in a blender and whiz until chunky. Strain the water from the pips and flesh and return it to the pan, adding the chopped zest and the lemon juice. Discard the pips and the debris.
Add the sugar to the pan and bring slowly to simmering point, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Because the sugar content is high this will take quite a long time. When the marmalade has become translucent, you will know the sugar has dissolved and you can increase the heat. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached – 5-10 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat and test for set (see below). If the marmalade is not ready, put the pan back on the heat to boil for a few more minutes and test again. Repeat this process if necessary and remember to take the pan off the heat during testing as over boiling the marmalade will ruin it.
When setting point is reached, return to simmering point, then turn off the heat. Skim with a perforated spoon, stir well and let stand for 20 – 30 minutes for the fruit to settle. Stir and ladle into clean, dry, warm jars and wipe the necks of the jar with a clean, damp cloth if necessary. Seal at once with waxed paper discs and covers.
Let cool, label and store in a cool, dark cupboard until required.
Testing for set
Before you start put a saucer and 2 – 3 teaspoons in the fridge to cool. When the marmalade is ready take it off the heat and using a cold spoon put a teaspoon full in the fridge on the cold saucer and leave for five minutes. After this time push the marmalade with a finger – if it offers resistance or crinkles it is ready, on the other hand if it is still liquid the marmalade needs to be boiled up again.
BEATING THE JANUARY BLUES
After the excitement and excesses of Christmas, it is always a relief to get back to normal. By the time the New Year celebrations are over I look forward to cutting back the feasting style meals, the snacking and to feeling hungry again.
The palate needs livening up with lots of fresh vegetables, crisp salad ingredients, colour, textures and exotic flavours. The worst of the winter is to come and so we still need hot comfort food; but it needs reinventing to wake up our taste buds.
Reaching for the wok is a great solution and so is lightening the diet with plenty of fish, shellfish and poultry. Wok style cooking is quick, which means ingredients cooked in it retain their integrity; their colour, flavour and good-for-us factor.
When we cook in a wok we look towards the East and are reminded there are myriad cuisines to bow down to. Indian, Malay, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese to name a few – and with them come infinite spices and sauces to help kick away the January blues.
If you would like to learn more about cooking in a work Shaun Nean our Malasian chef will be back at the Chef’s Room in January with “fish in a wok.”
MUSSELS WITH GINGER IN COCONUT MILK serves 4
This is a simple aromatic seafood recipe that I used to make frequently at this time of the year. I had actually forgotten about it until a recent chance meeting on Face Book when an old friend of my son’s described a dish of yellow mussels and then I remembered the rest. Here it is and Badge I hope you see this because it is for you.
Vegetable oil
150g shallots finely chopped
1 egg sized lump of ginger
8 small cloves of garlic
½ chili
100ml water
1 level tablespoon turmeric
1 level tablespoon cumin
salt
1kg mussels
400ml coconut milk
2 tablespoons chopped coriander
Heat enough vegetable oil to cover the base of a wok over low heat, add the chopped shallots and cook gently until soft. Put the ginger, garlic, chilli and water in a small blender and reduce to a paste. Add the paste, turmeric, cumin and salt to the pan, mix well and leave to fry for a minute or two. Add the coconut milk and bring to the boil. Add the mussels, cover and cook for 5 minutes or until they have all opened. Serve at once sprinkled with chopped coriander and hot crusty bread
We all love rhubarb or at least we should. It is one of the culinary joys of early spring; the earliest, slimmest, sweetest, tenderest variety is called ‘champagne rhubarb’. Its arrival in the shops and on the table heralds a host of lip smacking and comforting puddings, many of them rooted in our childhood: rhubarb and custard, rhubarb crumble, rhubarb tart, steamed roly-poly pudding, rhubarb fool, and the list goes on.
Rhubarb is not only about nursery food; its beautiful pink hue can add sophistication and its tart sweetness, piquancy to any sweetmeat; jams, jellies, mousses, cakes, panna cotta. Imagine choux pastry filled with rhubarb flavoured crème pâtissière and covered with white chocolate. Rhubarb is enhanced with the addition of orange zest, star anise and root ginger. For a double rhubarb hit try lacing puddings with Chases rhubarb liqueur or simply serve a shot on the side.
Rhubarb and triple almond frangipan tart - serves 6
For cooking the rhubarb in advance
500 g young tender rhubarb,
100 g caster sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons Chase’s rhubarb liqueur (optional)
For the pastry
100 g plain flour
10 g cornflour
30g icing sugar
60 g unsalted butter
1 small egg yolk
1 tablespoon iced water or Chase’s rhubarb liqueur
For the filling
150 g marzipan roughly grated
100 g unsalted butter
100 g caster sugar
2 eggs
2 tablespoons cornflour
2 teaspoons baking powder
100 g ground almonds
Sieved icing sugar to serve
Equipment: 22 cm diameter tart tin
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
To make the pastry, put all the ingredients in a bowl and work them quickly and lightly into a smooth ball with your hands. Wrap in cling film and chill in the fridge for 1 hour.
To cook the rhubarb, wash the rhubarb and without drying it cut into 2 – 3 cm lengths and put in a small pan with the sugar. Put over low heat and bring gently to simmering point. If the fruit is dry it may be necessary to add a couple of tablespoons of water at this stage. Cook gently until the rhubarb collapses. Add the rhubarb liqueur if using, stir well, then taste for sweetness. Transfer the rhubarb to a sieve, leave to drain over a small pan and leave to cool.
Put the pan of rhubarb juice on high heat and boil for 5 minutes or until reduced by half.
After an hour’s rest - with a rolling pin, roll the pastry out thinly on a floured surface and use to line the tart tin.
Spoon the cooled, drained rhubarb over the pastry base and scatter the roughly grated marzipan over the top.
Put the sugar and butter in a bowl and whisk until light and creamy. Add the eggs a little at a time, beating well as you do so. Add the cornflour, baking powder and almonds then gently fold into the mixture.
Spoon the mixture on top of the rhubarb and marzipan, taking care to cover it all and to spoon the cake mixture right up to the pastry edge. Sprinkle the flaked almonds over the top.
Transfer the tart to the oven and bake for about 45 minutes, until golden and springy to the touch. Reduce the heat to 160C/Gas Mark 3 for the last 20 minutes, or if the almonds start to turn too dark.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool a little. Serve warm sprinkled with icing sugar. Drizzle a few drops of the rhubarb syrup on each plate when serving.
WAKE ME UP IN THE MORNING – National Marmalade week
It may surprise you to know, given we are a nation of marmalade makers and eaters, that we are going to celebrate National Marmalade week this year for the very first time from 25 February - 3 March.
This inaugural awareness week has been created by the organizers of The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival held in Dalemain mansion in the Lake District because there has been a huge increase in the number of people making their own marmalades and artisan made marmalades on the market.
If you want to have a go yourself, entries to the awards are now open and jars from every type of marmalade maker are welcomed. Further entry details including a downloadable entry form, category criteria, submission details and entry fees can be found by visiting: www.marmaladeawards.com.
However if you simply want to have a bash at making your own to celebrate this great British tradition, here is a great marmalade recipe guaranteed to wake up your palate over breakfast. Don’t forget though, marmalade makes great sponge puddings and tarts too.
CHUNKY LIME,LEMON AND GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE
The combination of lemon, lime and grapefruit makes a delicious zingy ‘good morning world’ tasting marmalade. It can be made in small quantities at any time of the year, not just when the traditional Seville oranges are in season. I have given quantities to yield two or three jars but if you want to make in bulk, then simply double or triple the ingredients. Cut the peel to suit your taste – thick or thin by hand, chunky or fine using a blender. Vary the citrus fruit to suit your taste.
Ingredients
1 lemon
1 small pink grapefruit
1 lime
500 ml water
1 kg sugar
Juice of ½ lemon
Equipment
3 clean, dry, warm 259 g jam jars with lids
1 pack jam pot covers and waxed discs
Makes 500g 750 g
Scrub the fruit and prise out any stalk ends still attached. Put the fruit in a pan and cover with cold water, set over low heat and cook until tender – this will take 11/2-2 hours. The fruit is ready when it ‘collapses’. Lime zest is generally tougher than other citrus peel, so you must make sure it is tender at this stage otherwise it will taste woody.
Transfer the fruit to a chipping board, reserving the water) and leave until cool enough to handle. Cut in half, scrape out the pips and add to the pan of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Cut the zest into strips as finely as possible or put in a blender and whiz until chunky. Strain the water from the pips and flesh and return it to the pan, adding the chopped zest and the lemon juice. Discard the pips and the debris.
Add the sugar to the pan and bring slowly to simmering point, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Because the sugar content is high this will take quite a long time. When the marmalade has become translucent, you will know the sugar has dissolved and you can increase the heat. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached – 5-10 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat and test for set (see below). If the marmalade is not ready, put the pan back on the heat to boil for a few more minutes and test again. Repeat this process if necessary and remember to take the pan off the heat during testing as over boiling the marmalade will ruin it.
When setting point is reached, return to simmering point, then turn off the heat. Skim with a perforated spoon, stir well and let stand for 20 – 30 minutes for the fruit to settle. Stir and ladle into clean, dry, warm jars and wipe the necks of the jar with a clean, damp cloth if necessary. Seal at once with waxed paper discs and covers.
Let cool, label and store in a cool, dark cupboard until required.
Testing for set
Before you start put a saucer and 2 – 3 teaspoons in the fridge to cool. When the marmalade is ready take it off the heat and using a cold spoon put a teaspoon full in the fridge on the cold saucer and leave for five minutes. After this time push the marmalade with a finger – if it offers resistance or crinkles it is ready, on the other hand if it is still liquid the marmalade needs to be boiled up again.
BEATING THE JANUARY BLUES
After the excitement and excesses of Christmas, it is always a relief to get back to normal. By the time the New Year celebrations are over I look forward to cutting back the feasting style meals, the snacking and to feeling hungry again.
The palate needs livening up with lots of fresh vegetables, crisp salad ingredients, colour, textures and exotic flavours. The worst of the winter is to come and so we still need hot comfort food; but it needs reinventing to wake up our taste buds.
Reaching for the wok is a great solution and so is lightening the diet with plenty of fish, shellfish and poultry. Wok style cooking is quick, which means ingredients cooked in it retain their integrity; their colour, flavour and good-for-us factor.
When we cook in a wok we look towards the East and are reminded there are myriad cuisines to bow down to. Indian, Malay, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese to name a few – and with them come infinite spices and sauces to help kick away the January blues.
If you would like to learn more about cooking in a work Shaun Nean our Malasian chef will be back at the Chef’s Room in January with “fish in a wok.”
MUSSELS WITH GINGER IN COCONUT MILK serves 4
This is a simple aromatic seafood recipe that I used to make frequently at this time of the year. I had actually forgotten about it until a recent chance meeting on Face Book when an old friend of my son’s described a dish of yellow mussels and then I remembered the rest. Here it is and Badge I hope you see this because it is for you.
Vegetable oil
150g shallots finely chopped
1 egg sized lump of ginger
8 small cloves of garlic
½ chili
100ml water
1 level tablespoon turmeric
1 level tablespoon cumin
salt
1kg mussels
400ml coconut milk
2 tablespoons chopped coriander
Heat enough vegetable oil to cover the base of a wok over low heat, add the chopped shallots and cook gently until soft. Put the ginger, garlic, chilli and water in a small blender and reduce to a paste. Add the paste, turmeric, cumin and salt to the pan, mix well and leave to fry for a minute or two. Add the coconut milk and bring to the boil. Add the mussels, cover and cook for 5 minutes or until they have all opened. Serve at once sprinkled with chopped coriander and hot crusty bread
Thursday, 10 November 2011
Bah humbug pie
I love Christmas and everything that goes with it except for the jolly, heart-warming festive cheer that is rolled out nightly from the beginning of November on our television screens in the names of the nation’s great harbingers of Christmas (the supermarkets). I do confess to a fleeting delight in guessing which retailing giant is hiding behind which tinsel trimmed advertising campaign and I might even enjoy the whole cosy experience in mid December but by the time I am ready to deck the halls with boughs of holly the TV is off on holiday.
Enough of my twenty-first century bah-humbug – I don’t have to watch the TV – and I don’t much. As I said I love Christmas and I do like to get organised. I have already made mincemeat and it won’t be long before the cake and pudding are done. Yes made and put away and forgotten until mid December when Christmas is a go-go at our house.
The whole concept of Christmas as we know it would not be unfamiliar to Charles Dickens – the tree, the cards, the presents, the hams, the goose and all the trimmings, the pies.....but he might be shocked to discover it starts in November.... where was I? Oh yes pies....let’s not forget the pies – steak and ale, pork in cider made with suet crust, baked and served hot. The secret is to make the fillings and cook them now and freeze in pie dishes and then make the suet crust on the day, then bake and serve with golden baked potatoes and piles of fresh greens or a crisp green salad ti liven up the taste buds
Traditional Pork in cider suet crust pie, serves 8
2 large onions, chopped
1600 g shoulder of pork, cut into bite sized pieces
2 large cooking apple, peeled and chopped
300 g parsnip, peeled and cut into chunks
300 g carrots, peeled and cut into rings
2 heaped teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
4 heaped tablespoons plain flour
Sunflower oil
Salt and black pepper
1 L ml cider
For the pastry
300 g self raising flour, sieved
150 g suet
2 heaped teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and black pepper
6 - 9 tablespoons cold water
Equipment: 2 litre pie dish
Put a large frying pan or saucepan on medium to high heat, when hot add enough oil to cover the base of the pan then add the finely chopped onion and fry until soft and golden. Reduce the heat after a couple of minutes to avoid burning the onion.
When the onion is nicely caramelised, increase the heat again and add the pork and fry to brown – this may take some time – be patient! When the meat is nicely browned, add the apple and the vegetables, ginger, salt and pepper, thyme leaves, parsley and stir well , then stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes then reduce the heat and add enough cider to cover, stirring to create a smooth gravy. Transfer everything to a casserole dish at this stage. Cover with a lid and cook for 1 – 1.1/2 hours at 160 -180 C gas mark 3-4
Rest for half an hour or overnight as time allows
When ready to serve transfer the cooled pork to the pie dish. Put the sieved flour in a large bowl; add the suet, thyme leaves, chopped parsley, salt and black pepper. Mix and add the cold water and using the hands bring the ingredients together and roll into a neat ball. Flour the work surface, flatten the pastry and then roll out to fit the pie dish. Transfer the pastry and lay on top of the meat, sealing the edges and cook in a pre-heated oven 180 – 200 C gas mark 6 until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling hot – say 30 minutes.
Enough of my twenty-first century bah-humbug – I don’t have to watch the TV – and I don’t much. As I said I love Christmas and I do like to get organised. I have already made mincemeat and it won’t be long before the cake and pudding are done. Yes made and put away and forgotten until mid December when Christmas is a go-go at our house.
The whole concept of Christmas as we know it would not be unfamiliar to Charles Dickens – the tree, the cards, the presents, the hams, the goose and all the trimmings, the pies.....but he might be shocked to discover it starts in November.... where was I? Oh yes pies....let’s not forget the pies – steak and ale, pork in cider made with suet crust, baked and served hot. The secret is to make the fillings and cook them now and freeze in pie dishes and then make the suet crust on the day, then bake and serve with golden baked potatoes and piles of fresh greens or a crisp green salad ti liven up the taste buds
Traditional Pork in cider suet crust pie, serves 8
2 large onions, chopped
1600 g shoulder of pork, cut into bite sized pieces
2 large cooking apple, peeled and chopped
300 g parsnip, peeled and cut into chunks
300 g carrots, peeled and cut into rings
2 heaped teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
4 heaped tablespoons plain flour
Sunflower oil
Salt and black pepper
1 L ml cider
For the pastry
300 g self raising flour, sieved
150 g suet
2 heaped teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and black pepper
6 - 9 tablespoons cold water
Equipment: 2 litre pie dish
Put a large frying pan or saucepan on medium to high heat, when hot add enough oil to cover the base of the pan then add the finely chopped onion and fry until soft and golden. Reduce the heat after a couple of minutes to avoid burning the onion.
When the onion is nicely caramelised, increase the heat again and add the pork and fry to brown – this may take some time – be patient! When the meat is nicely browned, add the apple and the vegetables, ginger, salt and pepper, thyme leaves, parsley and stir well , then stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes then reduce the heat and add enough cider to cover, stirring to create a smooth gravy. Transfer everything to a casserole dish at this stage. Cover with a lid and cook for 1 – 1.1/2 hours at 160 -180 C gas mark 3-4
Rest for half an hour or overnight as time allows
When ready to serve transfer the cooled pork to the pie dish. Put the sieved flour in a large bowl; add the suet, thyme leaves, chopped parsley, salt and black pepper. Mix and add the cold water and using the hands bring the ingredients together and roll into a neat ball. Flour the work surface, flatten the pastry and then roll out to fit the pie dish. Transfer the pastry and lay on top of the meat, sealing the edges and cook in a pre-heated oven 180 – 200 C gas mark 6 until the pastry is golden and the filling is bubbling hot – say 30 minutes.
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